Delta 581 SEA

 For months they were simply days on the calendar, a squiggle of bold lines protectively cordoning the dates, an airline code happily scribbled alongside. For weeks we parried the how many sleeps and when are they coming with distractions of every nature. But as the days marched slowly toward those squiggly lines, even I had trouble containing my enthusiasm.  Our first visitors to Tokyo! And who better to sprint through those squiggly lines and into our Tokyo winter than Aunt Dano and Uncle Shad!

   

 

For ten luxurious days we held them tight and soaked them up. The kids proudly shared their new world, happily providing train guidance (Never take an Express if you don't know where it's going!), dining advice (Avoid anything in the form of a ball! You never know what's inside!), and touring expertise (If you want some time alone, go to Tokyo Tower!) (Despite its Lonely Planet classification as a 'shameless tourist trap', we always find this out-sized and outdated radio tower refreshingly empty by Tokyo standards.  Perhaps the crowds have migrated to the newer and taller Tokyo Skytree, and that's fine with us. That leaves us happily eating ice cream and sipping coffee at the embarrassingly low height of 150 meters in the Tower cafe, but without the danger of dripping on anyone sitting too close. And believe me, that threat is real anywhere else in Tokyo.)

Enjoying a little down time
up in the tower

Despite a little bit of jet lag and perhaps an even greater amount of work lag, this cheerful duo hit the ground running, offering in no time their own train guidance (If everyone else gets off a train, you should, too!), dining advice (Think twice before ordering the sushi for breakfast!) and touring expertise (who knew there were pubs and craft brewery offerings right here in Tokyo!)

As I had feared, the week all but evaporated in a flurry of activity and sightseeing...a lazy Sunday brunch on a blustery February day, a stroll through the gardens of the Imperial Palace, a Shinto wedding procession at Meiji Temple...a few of so many wonderful things packed into those cordoned dates on a calendar page!    

Before launching these two back into the past from which they had come, we made a final excursion to Kyoto to relish the sights of old Japan.

We began our visit to Kyoto with a tour of Nijo Castle.
The site has housed a temple since the 700s,
though the current structure dates 'only' to the1600s.

The castle is famed, in part, for its "Nightingale Floor" - a clever little security measure quite effective at keeping intruders at bay. Even the spryest of ninjas would find it difficult to advance upon the Shogun without his presence announced by the chirp of each  incriminating step.

Our day concluded with a visit to Kiyumizu-dera. An old Japanese saying references this ancient temple: to leap from Kiyumizu's butai means you have made an important decision or done something requiring great courage. I like that.  Another source indicated that during the Edo Period, it was said that if you could survive a leap of 13m, your wish would be granted.
I guess I'm more of a figurative girl by nature.

With a baby due in July, Danielle and Shad 

have essentially leapt from Kiyumizu's butai! 

A visit to the Golden Pavillion on Sunday
completed our tryptic of breath-taking sights.

The cost of such a visit is dear.  We now have memories of Danielle and Shad in this place where before we had none. That tugs at the heart a little, but it's a price I'll happily pay! Thanks for coming, you two!

Snow Falling on Cedars

When Chris isn't toiling at work, he is scheming, plotting, dreaming at home. I'll look up from my bento prep-shop -  (toiling in my own right over what to pack in those cute little containers for my cute little picky eater) - to find him at his computer, clicking through keys and scrolling through screens.  Most recently, those clicks and scrolls had us aboard a bullet train, bound for the mountains of Nikko.

Riding the shinkansen for the first time

That same bullet train returned us safely home on Sunday despite the record-breaking snowfall in Tokyo over the weekend, but somehow I don't feel entirely back.  What was it about Nikko?

Maybe it was our inn, a warm haven tucked cozily into the mountains, snow piling merrily outside it throughout our stay. Dinner there was announced each night with a sumismasen (excuse me!) outside our room, followed by the sliding of the rice paper door to reveal a smiling, gracious woman seated on her heels as she greeted us.  In she came with lacquered tray after lacquered tray bearing our kaiseki (traditional Japanese dinner), each a beautiful composition of tiny, delicious - and sometimes just a bit curious - dishes. 

Patrick's kaiseki -
Not your typical 'Happy Meal'!

Maybe it was the breathtaking walk through snow-covered cedars, their majestic simplicity an impressive complement to the extravagant structures they surround.

The pagoda at Tosho-gu,
a shrine to a 17th-century shogun

Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil -
the original!

The Sacred Bridge

Maybe it was the simple joy of fun in the snow - no doubt this was the kids' favorite! (What was it about trudging from historic site to historic site didn't they enjoy?  Not quite sure! ;-) 

  

 

Quite probably, it was a combination of all of these. Eventually my head will be back in Tokyo, but I'm okay with it in the clouds of Nikko just a few days longer. 

Meiji Shrine

Tucked amid the crazy bustle of some of Tokyo's busiest districts is a forested haven of 175 acres. There we ambled under the luxury of a warm February sun to tour the grounds of Meiji Shrine.

Just another day in Tokyo for Patrick...meanwhile, Evelyn spots the beginnings of a Shinto wedding procession in the inner courtyard.

I can't imagine I'll ever tire of chancing upon such lovely scenes...beautiful glimpses into the lives of beautiful people!

A Girl Turns Four in Tokyo

"I can't wait for my birthday, Mommy!"

"Oh, really, honey.  Why is that?"

"Because I can't wait to see all the boys and girls that come!"

Ummmm...while it's true we had been busily and excitedly anticipating Evelyn's Big Day this past week, nowhere among those plans did there exist any evidence of an invitation to anyone outside our family. Per her request, fresh flowers had been purchased.  As she had hoped, there would be cake. And would there be a present or two?  Oh yes!  Even calls and well wishes from Grammas and Aunties  and friends from too far away.  But a decorated house bustling with the boisterous enthusiasm of birthday euphoria?

"Oh, Evelyn. I'm sorry. There won't be any boys and girls coming.  It will be just our family, celebrating here in Tokyo."

To which she became quiet, pensively considering this disappointing announcement, and then brightening with a suggestion to invite friends from her world back home. But her voice trailed off even as she offered their names, the reality of the notion far-fetched... even for her. Little replaces dear friends and family when it comes to celebrating a special day, but I assured her we would do our best.

Happy 4th Birthday, Evelyn!

Your birthday finally made it to Japan!

After a cozy morning of tea and crafts (what can I say - Evelyn likes to party!), we picked up Patrick and headed for lunch at a restaurant Evelyn remembered in Jiyugaoka, a cute little neighborhood just two train stops away. What a happy stroke of luck at the train station to run into a mom who has been incredibly dear and helpful to us at the kindergarten.  She and her son joined us for lunch - talk about a surprise party!

Since our arrival, the kids have noticed a zippy little three-wheeler careening through the crooked streets of our neighborhood, briefly stopping at residences before zooming out of sight. It didn't take the kids long to ask when the little three-wheeler might come careening in our direction. In honor of Evelyn's birthday I finally (if reluctantly!) consented.  You know you've reached the pinnacle of convenience when McDonald's arrives at your door.

Here we are waiting for our birthday dinner delivery...Evelyn wanted to be sure we didn't miss it! (Don't even get me started on the fact that Evelyn is not wearing a coat...)

That there was a box with our name waiting for us at the bakery was nothing short of miraculous given the spectacle of charades, Berlitz-book-flipping, and iPhone-translating required to try to order the cake of Evelyn's dreams. I left the bakery hopeful but a bit dubious the day before, so I was elated and not just a little surprised when the attendant returned from the cooler bearing an adorable little cake for our girl!

Time for presents!
Patrick wonders if Evelyn will like his gift.

If the delighted squeals upon opening the clip-on earrings Patrick gave her did not convince him, perhaps the little red circles on her poor inflamed earlobes will!  She refuses to remove her earrings for any length of time and would sleep with them on if she could.

Flowers? Well-wishes from home? Lunch with new friends? McDelivery? Cake and presents?  What's not to love?! I'm not four and it wasn't my big day, but to me the marking of this precious time would be special at any gps coordinate. A girl turns four in Tokyo - and hearts are happy and full!